U.S. Marshal Raylan Givens (Timothy Olyphant) of ‘Justified,’ airing Tuesdays on FX, is pretty complicated – on the inside. But on the outside, costume designer Patia Prouty has kept him as simple as a dry Kentucky county.
“When you think about who he is, he’s not going to go out and buy a lot of clothes,” Prouty says. “When the series started he was just divorced – he basically had two pair of jeans, two shirts and two jackets.”
And while things have changed somewhat for Raylan since the series began, he’s still a pretty basic dresser: jeans, boots, shirt, coat and hat.
“He wears Levi 501 jeans, never anything else,” Prouty says. “And that overcoat we used in all of the press this year? That’s an old (six years) Hugo Boss overcoat from a rental house that we sorta/kinda never returned. I’ve been forever trying to replace it because we always need extras, but I can’t find any more. I even went so far as to look for fabric like it to re-create it.”
The overcoat is a 3/4-length charcoal herringbone wool that has a very ’60s vibe to it: very simple, single-breasted, two side pockets, very clean lines. It’s an iconic piece that lends itself to the powerful silhouette Prouty likes for her leading man. And another piece of the Raylan silhouette is the custom hat he’s never without.
“The hat is a custom-made variation on a cattleman’s hat by Baron (baronhats.com/rg.htm),” Prouty says. “You can actually buy a copy of it on their website. The beaver runs $1,250, and the fur felt is $899 … . I love it in those moments when you see him in silhouette – it’s very Gary Cooper.”
And what’s a cowboy lawman without a pair of boots? Not much. And again, Raylan is looking sharp in Lucchese ostrich leg cowboy boots (www.lucchese.com).
“Unlike the belly of the ostrich, which has those bumps, the ostrich leg looks more like alligator or crocodile skin,” Prouty says. “The first two seasons his boots were anteater, but they aren’t available anymore, and frankly, they’re now on the endangered list.”
Because the boots are so red/orange when new, Prouty brought in a costumer to age them into a deeper tone.
Raylan’s shirts, which continue the darker plaid hues this season – greens, navys and blacks – are actually sports shirts and not dress shirts. And a significant number are John Varvatos Converse (www.johnvarvatos.com/apparel_sport_shirts/pl/c/22.html) or Calvin Kleins with small collars, helping to keep that ’60s look to which Prouty matches skinny vintage ties she finds at costume houses.
“That’s where his real style kinda shows through, with his ties,” Prouty says. “Some are hand-painted and really beautiful. On top of that we’ll slip him into a Banana Republic Monogram suit jacket (bananarepublic.gap.com) with a thinner lapel. Again, it kind of references the ’60s. And again, it’s pretty dark.”
Which is exactly what we’d expect from Raylan. From a distance he seems pretty simple. It’s not until we get closer that things get complicated.